THIS IS WHAT WE FOUND!

In a world increasingly saturated with mass-produced goods, there's a certain allure to finding and refurbishing vintage pieces. Whether it's for sentimental value or a desire for unique decor, giving new life to old furniture can be a gratifying experience. Such is the case for this vintage footstool, purchased at an auction. It didn't have a cushion, but that was not a problem since I typically remove the old upholstery anyway. Materials Needed: Below are some links to products I used in this project. Disclaimer: Junk is My Life is a participant in the Amazon Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com Rustoleum Milk Paint in Eclipse All purpose cleaner Sandpaper (medium and fine grit) Paintbrushes (small and medium) Wood glue Wood clamps Drop cloth Polyurethane (Varathane Crystal Clear in Satin) Upholstery fabric Foam Cotton batting Staple Gun Scrap lumber or small piece of plywood Let's Get Started! This footstool was a little wobbly and a little bit dirty. I used an all purpose cleaner to remove the dust and dirt from the footstool. Next, I used wood glue to stabilize the piece. Some of the joints were loose. I added the glue to the loose joints and stabilized the piece with wood clamps. I allowed the glue to dry for at least 24 hours. Now the piece was very sturdy and was ready for paint. I applied two coats of Rustoleum Milk Paint in the Eclipse color. When the paint had fully dried, I used 100 grit sandpaper to distress the piece. I wiped down the footstool with a damp cloth to remove the dust from the sandpaper. I applied a coat of Varathane Crystal Clear Polyurethane in the Satin finish. Now that the base was complete, it was time to work on the cushion! I measured the inside dimensions of the base and cut a spare piece of .25" plywood to size. I had found a cream and black striped upholstery fabric at Hobby Lobby I really liked. I thought it would be perfect for this piece. I have several posts describing the step by step of upholstering a cushion such as this. Align the fabric, foam and batting and begin in the center of each side stapling the fabric and batting to the plywood. Work your way around the piece, adding a few staples to each side, then turning the piece to add a few more staples. Work your way out to the corners. I used 3 inch foam for this project. I needed the extra depth because of the design of this particular footstool. The cushion simply sets in the interior portion of the base. I suppose you could add some screws on the underside, but it fit in there really well, so I didn't feel the need to secure it. Using the 3 inch foam allowed this to puff up just over the edge to ensure comfort for the user! Embrace the beauty of vintage charm and let your creativity shine as you breathe new life into old furniture. Whether it's a footstool, a side table, or a dresser, the possibilities for refurbishment are endless. So go ahead, pick up that paintbrush, and unleash your inner DIY enthusiast! I didn't have time to stage this particular project. I needed to get it in my booth right away. Furniture sales have been great lately! Below is the finished piece. Thank you for reading my blog! If you would like to see more, follow me on Facebook, Instagram,and Pinterest! Just click on any of the social media links above! Thanks for following me on the junking adventures! Below are some links to products I used in this project. Disclaimer: Junk is My Life is a participant in the Amazon Affiliate Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com Below is an image to pin to Pinterest if you would like to save this idea!

Are you a fan of thrift store adventures, where hidden treasures await to be discovered? I recently embarked on one such journey and stumbled upon a delightful find: a quaint shelf with vintage charm just waiting to be revived. In today's blog post, I'm excited to share my experience of breathing new life into this piece using Waverly Chalk Paint in the enchanting Moss color, and how it has become a perfect addition to my antique booth, showcasing an array of small treasures. The Thrift Store Treasure Hunt There's something magical about thrift stores, isn't there? The anticipation of what you might uncover adds an element of excitement to each visit. On a recent trip, amidst a sea of forgotten items, my eyes landed on a really cute shelf tucked away in a corner. Its charming details immediately caught my attention, and I knew I had stumbled upon something special. It was clearly handmade and I'm sure it held treasures in someone's home for a long time. Bringing New Life With a vision in mind, I brought the shelf home, ready to embark on a transformation journey. Waverly Chalk Paint in Moss was the perfect choice for this project. Its rich, earthy hue exuded warmth and sophistication, perfectly complementing the vintage aesthetic of the shelf. Materials Needed: Below are some links to products I used in this project. Disclaimer: Junk is My Life is a participant in the WalMart Creator Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to WalMart.com Sandpaper (various grits) Chalk paint (color of your choice—I used Waverly Chalk Paint in the Moss color) Paintbrushes Polyurethane Rags All Purpose Cleaner Before diving into painting, I prepped the surface by cleaning and lightly sanding it to ensure optimal adhesion and a smooth finish. As I applied the first strokes of chalk paint, I couldn't help but admire how effortlessly it glided across the surface, instantly breathing new life into the old shelf. The paint's velvety texture and matte finish lent a rustic yet refined look, enhancing the shelf's character while preserving its vintage appeal. I used two coats of paint for this project. With each coat, the Moss color deepened, imparting a timeless elegance to the piece. I distressed the paint in various locations across the piece. Then I sealed the piece with Varathane Crystal Clear Polyurethane in the satin finish. A Stylish Showcase for Small Treasures Once the paint had dried and cured, it was time to put the shelf to use. I decided to incorporate it into my antique booth, where it would serve as a stylish showcase for an assortment of small treasures. From delicate porcelain figurines to vintage salt and pepper shakers, the shelf provided the perfect backdrop, allowing each item to shine. Whether displaying cherished collectibles or serving as a focal point in a room, the transformed shelf exuded charm and personality, adding a touch of whimsy to any space. Embracing the Joy of Thrifting In a world where mass-produced items dominate the market, there's something inherently satisfying about breathing new life into old treasures through the art of DIY. With a little creativity and the right tools, ordinary pieces can be transformed into extraordinary works of art, imbued with history and character. My journey of reviving this thrift store find reminded me of the joy that comes from embracing creativity and seeing beauty in unexpected places. Whether you're a seasoned DIY enthusiast or someone embarking on their first project, I encourage you to explore the world of thrift stores and unleash your imagination. Who knows what treasures you might discover and the stories waiting to be told? With a fresh coat of paint and a dash of creativity, an ordinary piece became a beloved centerpiece, adding character and charm to my antique booth. So, the next time you find yourself perusing the aisles of a thrift store, keep an eye out for hidden gems awaiting their moment to shine. Happy thrifting and happy painting! Thank you for reading my blog! If you would like to see more, follow me on Facebook, Instagram,and Pinterest! Just click on any of the social media links above! Thanks for following me on the junking adventures! Below are some links to products I used in this project. Disclaimer: Junk is My Life is a participant in the WalMart Creator Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to WalMart.com. Below is an image to pin to Pinterest if you would like to save this idea!

Many of the auctioneers in our area went to online auctions during the pandemic. Live auctions are back in full force, but there are still a plethora of online auctions. Sometimes I get a little more than I bargained for. One such instance was a small side table at a local auction. I had been bidding on some wooden book racks. I didn't realize they came with the table that was partially shown in the photo (it only showed the top of the table). It was a little rough and wobbly, but I knew I could upcycle it with some chalk paint! Auctions are treasure troves of unique and eclectic furniture, and this one had a lot of potential. It appeared to be a hand crafted piece. The bottom legs had separated from the middle piece, but a little glue would fix that in no time. Materials Needed: Below are some links to products I used in this project. Disclaimer: Junk is My Life is a participant in the WalMart Creator Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to WalMart.com Sandpaper (various grits) Chalk paint (color of your choice—I used Waverly Chalk Paint in the Moss color) Paintbrushes Polyurethane Rags All Purpose Cleaner Wood Glue Wood Clamp Let's Get Started! Prepare the Surface: Begin by cleaning the surface to remove all dirt and dust. Lightly sand the surface of the table to remove any existing finish and create a smooth base for the chalk paint. This step ensures better paint adherence and a polished final result. Stabilize the Table: The brace between the legs was loose I applied wood glue to each end and reattached to the legs. I clamped the piece with wood clamps and let it cure for 24 hours. Apply Chalk Paint: Select a high-quality chalk paint in the color of your choice. Chalk paint is known for its matte finish and excellent coverage. Apply the first coat evenly, allowing it to dry completely before adding additional coats. Depending on the desired opacity, 2-3 coats may be necessary. I used two coats on this table. Add Distressing (Optional): For a vintage or shabby-chic look, consider distressing the edges and corners of the table. Lightly sand these areas after the final coat of chalk paint has dried, exposing the wood beneath. I used a 60 grit sandpaper to achieve this level of distressing. Protect with Polyurethane: Once the paint is fully dry, protect the surface with a polyurethane finish. I used Varathane Crystal Clear Poly with a satin finish on this piece. This step not only seals the paint but also adds a subtle sheen to the piece. Upcycling a small side table from an auction find into a stylish showpiece through chalk painting is a satisfying and creative endeavor. Embrace the beauty of imperfections, and let your artistic vision breathe new life into forgotten furniture. The joy of witnessing the before-and-after of such a project is a testament to the transformative power of DIY home decor. Happy painting! Thank you for reading my blog! If you would like to see more, follow me on Facebook, Instagram,and Pinterest! Just click on any of the social media links above! Thanks for following me on the junking adventures! Below is an image to pin to Pinterest if you would like to save this idea!

I often have people ask me about the tools I use in my upcycling/repurposing/vintage and antiques business. I thought I would share some of my favorite tools. First up, the Dual Point Driver. One of my favorite things to source and resell is vintage artwork. Whether it is a vintage print, painting, sketch or needlework, I love finding gems and offering them for sale. In the world of framed vintage art and photography, the devil is in the details. Every framer knows the importance of securing prints flawlessly within frames to ensure longevity, stability, and an overall polished presentation. Among the myriad tools available, one stands out as a true game-changer – the dual point driver. This unassuming yet powerful device has become my go-to tool, revolutionizing the way I secure prints in frames. In this blog post, let's explore why the dual point driver has become one of my favorite tools and how it elevates the art of framing. The Dual Point Driver—the Basics Before delving into the unique features of the dual point driver, let's cover the basics. Traditional framing often involves the use of glazier's points or staples to secure artwork to the backing board. While effective, these methods may not provide the level of precision and stability required for delicate prints and valuable artwork. This is where the dual point driver steps in, offering a more advanced and secure solution. Precision and Stability One of the standout features of the dual point driver is its ability to create two precisely spaced points simultaneously. This dual-point mechanism ensures an even distribution of pressure along the entire edge of the frame, holding the print securely in place. The result is a level of stability that surpasses traditional methods, preventing warping or shifting over time. Versatility in Framing Whether you're working with delicate paper prints, canvas, or other materials, the dual point driver proves its versatility. The adjustable tension settings allow for customization based on the thickness of the materials, ensuring a snug fit without compromising the integrity of the artwork. This adaptability makes it a must-have tool for framers dealing with a diverse range of projects. Preservation of Artwork Beyond its functional benefits, the dual point driver contributes to the preservation of artwork. The controlled pressure exerted by the dual points minimizes the risk of damage to delicate prints, preventing tears or indentations. This is especially crucial when framing vintage prints or artwork on fragile materials. I often have to deconstruct a vintage piece to clean or replace the glass, and/or clean or repair the frame. This tool makes reframing the piece very easy! Even if I don't have to completely deconstruct the frame, but simply ensure the art is securely in the frame, I can't tell you how often I use this tool! The video below shows the ease of use for this product! The dual point driver has become my secret weapon for achieving professional, stable, and visually appealing results. Its precision, ease of use, and versatility make it an indispensable tool in my framing arsenal. As I continue to explore new techniques and perfect my craft, the dual point driver remains a steadfast companion, ensuring that each framed piece is a testament to the art of precision in presentation. Below are some links to products I used in this project. Disclaimer: Junk is My Life is a participant in the WalMart Creator Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to walmart.com. Thank you for reading my blog! If you would like to see more, follow me on Facebook, Instagram,and Pinterest! Just click on any of the social media links above! Thanks for following me on the junking adventures!

I am a huge nerd. Always have been. I wear the badge proudly. I watch Jeopardy, I enjoy trivia more than most and I retain useless knowledge like no other. So consider this your nerd alert. This post takes a nerdy deep dive on something I found in a box lot at an auction. What are box lots, you may ask? Sometimes I assume people just know the terminology of an auction. But just last week, I met a woman that had never been to one. So, box lots are cardboard boxes (or sometimes plastic totes) that have random group of items that have been bundled together and sold as one unit. The items in a box lot may be unrelated or have a common theme, but they are not typically individually catalogued or described. I like to get to an auction early and dig through the box lots. You never know what you will find! This weekend, I bought a box of books. I bought it because there was a novel by James Michener in the box. My Godson is a fan so I pick them up when I can. The Michener book was a first edition with the jacket cover. I only paid $2 for the entire box. Score! But I was really fascinated by another book in the box—a 1920 edition of the Official Automobile Blue Book. It was leather bound and the pages were almost like the consistency of tissue paper. It's the kind of old book that just feels good in your hand. As I was flipping through it, I realized I was reading Mapquest directions from over 100 years ago! Remember Mapquest? It seemed so innovative at the time. But they had THIS over 100 years ago. When I got home, I started doing a little research. This is where my neediness comes in. I love a good deep dive into something I have never seen before. So come along with me on my deep dive... Navigating the Past: The 1920 Automobile Blue Book In an era when the automobile was still a novelty and long road trips were adventurous endeavors, finding your way across the vast expanse of America was no small feat. Enter the 1920 Automobile Blue Book, a publication that played a pivotal role in helping early motorists explore the open road. I found this book so interesting, I wanted to delve into the history of these invaluable guides and explore the significance of the 1920 edition published by the Automobile Blue Book Publishing Co. The Birth of Automobile Blue Books Before the advent of GPS, smartphones, and even detailed road maps, early motorists had to rely on a patchwork of poorly marked roads and verbal directions. This lack of reliable navigation resources led to the emergence of the Automobile Blue Book series. The Official Automobile Blue Book was founded by Charles Howard Gil­lette, a supplier of oil and grease business owner from Hartford, Connecticut. The first edition was published in 1901 by the Automobile Blue Book Publishing Co., a company founded by Albert S. Southwick and Joshua F. Tolman. The book I purchased came with a bookmark attached. It was an advertisement for Se-Ment-Ol Radiator Cement. I didn't do a deep dive on that product—I guess I will save that for another day! These blue books were essentially detailed route guides designed to help automobile enthusiasts plan their journeys. They contained maps, directions, and information about road conditions, accommodations, fuel stops, and other essential travel details. The books were bound in blue covers, which is how they got their distinctive name. The books were offered in several volumes with different volumes covering specific areas of the country. This particular one covers Illinois, Indiana, Ohio and Kentucky. I really love the detail for the directions. Mileage down to the tenth of mile. Landmarks such as blacksmith shops, courthouses, churches or a brick schoolhouse. Amazing. That made me wonder who pulled all this information together? The routes used in the Blue Book were initially developed by amateur "pathfinders" who used their knowledge of local roads to compile the listed routes. Early pathfinders included bicyclists, and automobile clubs (AAA). By 1907 the Blue Book had its own professional pathfinders working in teams of two to create and update routes. The book is filled with amazing advertisements: hotels, tire companies, garages and restaurants. There is a group of color pages in the book promoting locations for National Touring. The ads in this section are just breath-taking. Can you imagine the trips this section inspired? I would love to go back in time and visit some of these locations as they were then. The Significance of the 1920 Edition By the time the 1920 edition was published, the American automobile industry was booming, and more people were hitting the road in their Model Ts and other early automobiles. The 1920 Automobile Blue Book was a critical resource for these adventurers. It covered the United States and parts of Canada, providing detailed information about thousands of miles of roads and highways. Mapping the Landscape: The 1920 edition featured maps that were meticulously hand-drawn and marked with essential details such as road conditions, distances between towns, and notable landmarks. These maps were a lifeline for travelers navigating unfamiliar territories. Roadside Assistance: Unlike today's service stations and convenience stores, the 1920s lacked roadside amenities. The Blue Book included listings for essential services like gas stations, garages, hotels, and restaurants, making it easier for travelers to plan their stops and rest breaks. Regional Insights: In addition to route guidance, the book offered insights into the regions it covered. It shared historical anecdotes, local attractions, and even advice on handling specific terrains and weather conditions. An Evolving Resource: The 1920 edition was an evolution of its predecessors. With each new edition, the Blue Books incorporated feedback from travelers, updated road conditions, and expanded coverage to keep pace with the rapid development of the American road network. Legacy and the End of an Era The 1920 Automobile Blue Book marked the peak of these iconic publications. Over the years, advancements in technology, including road signage and the availability of more detailed maps, gradually made the Blue Books less essential. On November 11, 1926, the newly established United States Numbered Highway System changed the way U.S. drivers navigate the country. Oil and gas companies began offering road maps in an effort to promote their businesses. The Blue Book was eventually replaced by these maps. The last edition was published in 1929, as the automobile navigation landscape continued to change. While these publications have been largely replaced by modern GPS devices and digital mapping tools, they hold a special place in the history of American travel. They were instrumental in expanding new horizons for early motorists and fostering a sense of adventure on the open road. The 1920 Automobile Blue Book published by the Automobile Blue Book Publishing Co. was a vital resource for early American motorists, offering guidance and insights that paved the way for countless road trips and adventures. These blue books were more than just navigational aids; they were a testament to the spirit of exploration and the boundless possibilities of the open road. Today, they serve as valuable relics of a bygone era, reminding us of the challenges and triumphs of those who first ventured out onto America's highways. This book will eventually make its way to one of my booths. I want to spend a little time with it and dream about what a road trip used to look like! Thank you for reading my blog! If you would like to see more, follow me on Facebook, Instagram,and Pinterest! Just click on any of the social media links above! Thanks for following me on the junking adventures! Below are some links to products I used in my projects. Disclaimer: Junk is My Life is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.

Rolling into fall brings so many fun things; brightly colored leaves, crisp air, pumpkins, hot cocoa, and fall festivals. But, sadly, it also means the end of garage sale season. It won't be long until those hard-to-read signs pointing you in some vague direction leading to unknown treasure will be gone for the year. Fortunately, I still have some 2023 yard sale finds to upcycle. I found this bench holding a pile of suitcases (newer ones—not the amazing old ones!). Before I dug it out, I waved the owner over to ask if it was for sale. She was a sweet lady that she was just using it to hold the suitcases. She said it wasn't for sale because it didn't have a seat on it. She then unloaded the suitcases to show me that it did, in fact, not have a seat. I told her that was okay with me and if she wanted to sell it, I would be interested in buying it. She told me again that she didn't have the seat. I asked, "how much without the seat?" She said $2. SOLD. She actually said she was going to throw it away after the sale. She gladly took my $2. It's true what they say, someone's trash is someone else's treasure! On that day, it was my treasure! Y'all know I am not dissuaded by a lack of a seat. That is such an easy fix! in my workshop, I gathered the items needed for this project. Canvas Drop Cloth ZEP All Purpose Cleaner Rags for Cleaning Paint—I chose Rustoleum Milk Paint in the Eclipse color for this project Paint Brushes Sandpaper (variety of grits) Polyurethane—I used Varathane Crystal Clear Poly in the Satin finish for this project. Foam Brush (for poly application) Plywood—I used some scrap plywood I had on hand but you can pick it up at any local home improvement store. Circular Saw Upholstery Fabric Upholstery Foam Cotton Batting Electric Staple Gun Staples Wood screws I have a variety of drop cloths. I use one to spray paint, I have one that I brush paint (and assorted other things) and I have one that I keep really clean that I used when I am upholstering something. I grabbed the one for brush paint and placed it on my work surface. I used ZEP cleaner and a rag to wipe down the entire piece. This just really helps to get old dust and crud off of the piece. I painted the base with two coats of the Rustoleum Milk Paint in the Eclipse color. I used 80 grit sandpaper to heavily distress the base. When I was finished sanding, I wiped down the entire piece again to remove the dust from sanding. Then I sealed the piece with Varathane Crystal Clear Polyurethane in the Satin finish. Once that was dry, I measured the top of the base to cut a piece of plywood. I had some plywood left over from other projects so I grabbed a piece of 1/2" plywood and cut it to the size of the top with my saw. Before I began upholstering the plywood, I ensured it fit on the base (because sometimes I make mistakes!). I intentionally left about 1/4" between the edge of the plywood and the edge of the base so the upholstery would naturally fill in that space. The corners on this piece extend out a bit and will show after the piece is upholstered. That's why I always paint the top of the base. I had a scrap of this fabric left over from a few previous projects. There was just enough to upholster the this piece. I trimmed the right edge. I don't like a lot of extra fabric when I am upholstering a piece. Here are some of the other projects in which I have used this fabric: Mid Century Fab Find Chair for My Craft Room Making this Beauty Beautiful Again I layered the fabric, foam and cotton batting and began upholstering. Begin by placing a staple on each side of the board, pulling the fabric taut. At this point I usually flip it over and ensure the design of the fabric is working for the piece. This particular fabric didn't require specific alignment so I thought it looked good. I continued stapling the fabric out to the corners. I place three or four staples in each side continually working my way out to the corners. This keeps the fabric aligned and pulled taut. This is the plywood with the fabric upholstered on it. I gathered four 1 1/2" screws and attached the upholstered seat to the base. I always check after each screw to ensure the seat is aligned well on the base. A little paint and scrap fabric made a huge difference for this $2 bench. Even if I had to buy fabric, it can be found for under $10 a yard and this used less than half a yard. Save something from a landfill. You can do it. I know you can! Thank you for reading my blog! If you would like to see more, follow me on Facebook, Instagram,and Pinterest! Just click on any of the social media links above! Thanks for following me on the junking adventures! Below are some links to products I used in this project. Disclaimer: Junk is My Life is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Below is an image to pin to Pinterest if you would like to save this idea!

Every now and then you find a piece at a yard sale that just makes your heart sing and you know you have to find a spot for it in your home. Last summer, I stopped by a yard sale and immediately spotted this old display shelf for the National Biscuit Company. I posted my treasure trove of finds from that yard sale on Instagram that day, so if you follow me there, you may have seen this already. I couldn't believe the lettering had survived all these years. Overall the shelf was very sturdy, but it had seen some rough times and had been in storage for a while. It was really dusty and dirty, not to mention the shelves were a mess. Before we get into the restoration of this piece, I wanted to share a bit about the National Biscuit Company. NABISCO, short for the National Biscuit Company, is a household name that has been synonymous with delicious snacks and treats for over a century. With a rich history dating back to the late 19th century, NABISCO has evolved into one of the world's leading snack food companies. In this blog post, we'll take a journey through time to explore the captivating history of NABISCO and how it has shaped our snacking culture. The story of NABISCO begins in 1898 when the National Biscuit Company was formed through the merger of several regional bakeries and biscuit companies. The founding members recognized the potential of combining their strengths and resources to create a nationwide presence. This merger gave birth to a company that would soon become a pioneer in the emerging world of packaged snacks. NABISCO wasted no time in introducing a series of innovative and iconic products that would forever change the way Americans snack. One of its earliest successes was the Uneeda Biscuit, introduced in 1899. These crackers were the first to be sold in airtight packaging, ensuring freshness and convenience for consumers. I can't say that I have ever had a Uneeda Biscuit, but I am sure there were delicious! Another legendary NABISCO creation came in 1902 with the introduction of the now-famous Barnum's Animal Crackers. Packaged in a colorful box featuring circus animals, these animal-shaped cookies quickly became a beloved snack for children and adults alike. Barnum's Animal Crackers were a part of virtually everyone's childhood. Who didn't love those little cookies? I know I did (do!). The Oreo, arguably NABISCO's most iconic product, made its debut in 1912. The Oreo sandwich cookie, with its distinctive chocolate wafers and creamy filling, has since become a global phenomenon and one of the best-selling cookies in the world. Over the years, various flavors and limited-edition versions have expanded the Oreo family, captivating the taste buds of people worldwide. If you don't love Oreos, I don't know that we can be friends—there, I said it... NABISCO continued to innovate throughout the 20th century, introducing other classic snacks such as Ritz Crackers (1934), Wheat Thins (1947), and Chips Ahoy! (1963). These products solidified NABISCO's reputation as a leader in the snack food industry. The NABISCO brand was eventually sold to Kraft Foods in 2000, forming the global snack food powerhouse we know today as Mondelez International. The history of NABISCO is a testament to the power of innovation and adaptation in the world of snack food. From its humble beginnings in the late 19th century to its current status as a global snack food giant, NABISCO has delighted generations with its delicious and iconic products. As long as there are snack lovers around the world, NABISCO's legacy is sure to endure, offering a sweet and savory bite through time. I know there are NABISCO brands in my pantry—how about yours? Back to our project! I knew I wanted to put this in my kitchen. I already had a shelf that housed some cookbooks and a few decor items. I wanted to replace it with the NABISCO shelf, but it needed to be CLEAN and restored before it would cross the threshold of my kitchen. Fortunately, the shelves were easy to remove. They were attached with a metal rod through the center of the shelf attached with wing nuts on each side. For me, the shelves had taken the brunt of wear and tear of the last century. I didn't want to strip the entire piece and lose the amazing lettering on the display. I thought refinishing the shelves would achieve the look I wanted. There was a collection of dirt, paint and Lord knows what else on these boards. I cleaned them, let them dry and then attacked them with my sander. I used various grits of sandpaper from 80 to 240 remove the grunge. The paint required a wire brush and a scraper. I didn't want to lose all the character of the age of the shelves, I just wanted them to be clean enough to be in my kitchen. After multiple rounds of sanding, the boards wound up looking like this. I was satisfied with the amount of patina on the boards so I unplugged the sander. I cleaned all the sawdust off the boards and selected a stain to match the base of the shelves—or so I thought. It looked like it matched when I put it next to the base, but in reality, it turned out a bit lighter than I would have wanted. I had already added a coat of polyurethane when I discovered it didn't match so well. C'est la vie! For the base, I scrubbed it clean of the layers of grime. I was extra gentle on the two areas where the lettering was—I didn't want to lose any of that. After I cleaned it, I used Restor-A-Finish in the Walnut to bring the wood back to life. It worked beautifully. I reinstalled the shelves to the base. I think where I went wrong with the color of the shelves was I matched the color before I used the Restor-A-Finish on the base. I think that product really brought out the richness of the wood. Overall, I was really pleased with the outcome. Now it was time to load it into my kitchen! I went through my collection of cookbooks and purged the majority of them. Yes, this is the pile of cookbooks that didn't make the cut. You may be able to tell that I have (had) a slight obsession with Better Homes and Gardens cookbooks. The famous plaid cookbooks that were a staple of every home in America. The irony is that I don't really cook...so it was time to get rid of the fantasy that I might become a gourmet cook at this point in life. It just wasn't going to happen... I removed the old bookcase and moved this one into place. My trimmed down collection of BHG cookbooks now fits on one shelf and I can display some of my yard sale/auction finds on the remaining shelves. I love how it turned out. I was actually able to use another small bookcase I had under the window to catch some of the overflow. Now everything has a place and some of my treasures have been purged as well (coming soon to my booths!). Thank you for reading my blog! If you would like to see more, follow me on Facebook, Instagram,and Pinterest! Just click on any of the social media links above! Thanks for following me on the junking adventures! Below are some links to products I used in this project. Disclaimer: Junk is My Life is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Below is an image to pin to Pinterest if you would like to save this idea!

I have been cleaning and organizing my workshop, let's just say it is an ongoing process. I organize a bit, then find a project piece I just have to work on and then I organize a bit more. This chair was unearthed in my organization process. I picked it up at an auction for a few dollars. It was a little wobbly, but it was just so cute! The leather seat had no life left in it. For this project you will need: Screwdriver—to remove (and reattach) the upholstered seat from the frame. ZEP Cleaner—you will need a good cleaner/degreaser on most projects prior to painting. Rags—For cleaning—I use these rags until they are falling apart! Wood Glue —you need a good glue to shore up joints and repair cracks in the wood. Wood Clamps—I use wood clamps all the time! It good to have a variety of sizes. Milk Paint—I used Rustoleum Milk Paint in the Eclipse color for this project. Paint Brushes—these chalk paint brushes are great! Polyurethane—for sealing the paint. Foam Brush—for applying the polyurethane. Sandpaper—for smoothing the wood and distressing the paint. Upholstery Remover Tool—A must have for removing old fabric! Fabric—I use ticking fabric a lot. I kind of love it and it sells well. Batting—I use batting to layer in between the fabric and the upholstery foam. I actually buy it by the bolt because I use so much of it. Upholstery foam—99% of the time, I replace the old foam. Electric Stapler—This was one of my best investments! My hand used to ache when I used a manual stapler. It's worth every penny! Let's get to upcycling this chair! I began the project by removing the old seat. Seats on chairs like this are usually held in place by four screws and can be removed by simply removing the screws. There were two flat head screws holding this seat to the base. I used a flathead screwdriver to detach the seat. I save the screws to reattach the seat when it is finished. I cleaned the wood frame with ZEP All Purpose Cleaner. My plan was to paint it, so removing any old dust, grime and general ick is important before painting. Make sure the piece is thoroughly dry before painting. The frame had a crack in the wood, so I applied wood glue and used a wood clamp to ensure pieces remain aligned while the glue is curing. I usually keep the clamp on there for a minimum of 24 hours. I also glued a couple of the corners. This piece is now sturdy for the next owner! Once the glue dried, I painted the piece with two coats of Rustoleum Milk Paint in the Eclipse color. I use specific chalk paint brushes for this. They work well and really facilitate the paint coverage. I distressed the piece with 100 grit sandpaper. It is important to wipe down the piece after you sand it. Those little particles of wood and paint dust can mess up the finish coat. I use Varathane Crystal Clear Polyurethane in the satin finish to seal the piece. After the base is painted, I turn my attention to reupholstering the seat. I have an upholstery removal tool to remove all old staples and tacks. Fortunately, there was only one layer of fabric on this. This step is never good for my allergies! Ugh! The second photo shows the disgusting old padding. This is why 99% of the time, I use new padding on my projects. I usually save the upholstery of the seats for the last step. Sometimes because I change my mind about the fabric once the piece is painted, but sometimes, I change my mind about the color of the piece once it is painted and then I definitely choose a different fabric. I cut my ticking canvas fabric about two inches larger on each side of the seat. I lay the fabric on my table, then the batting, then the foam and then the wood base. Side note: I have a separate drop cloth I use for upholstering. I want to ensure nothing from a stray project gets on my fabric. Start the upholstery process by pulling the fabric taut and tacking down in the center of each side. This allows you to get the fabric in the correct position, particularly when you have a pattern such as stripes that will need to align to the base of the seat. After each side is tacked, you can work your way out to the corners, continuously turning the board. I put two or three staples in, turn the board, add another two or three staples to the next edge and continue until you reach the corners. Then I trim the remaining fabric and fold over the fabric and tack down the corners. Continuously ensure your fabric is straight. Being off even a little bit can be disastrous. You don't want to have to redo the piece. Using the screws I saved earlier, I reattached the freshly upholstered seat to the base. I was really pleased how this turned out. It's a cute little chair that could sit in a corner and be pulled out whenever it's needed. Thank you for reading my blog! If you would like to see more, follow me on Facebook, Instagram,and Pinterest! Just click on any of the social media links above! Thanks for following me on the junking adventures! Below are some links to products I used in this project. Disclaimer: Junk is My Life is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Below is an image to pin to Pinterest if you would like to save this idea!

I think we all had sewing stools in our homes when we were growing up. I know I did. We all must have had them because you can find them everywhere now. I often pick these up for under $10. I have several in my stash right now. I buy them at garage sales, estate sales and auctions. It always frustrates me when they want to sell it with a sewing machine. I have often asked it they would sell it separately and am often told no. The sewing machines often don't bring a bid so the stool just sits there and will probably end up at the dump. I decided to take three of the ones in my stash and up-cycle them at the same time. I gave each one a different look. I didn't grab a "before" pic of the third one. The base on that one was already painted white and it was upholstered with fuzzy pink unicorn fabric—definitely needed a makeover on that one. As always, I always begin by removing the old fabric from the seats. Some had multiple layers. I painted one of the stools with Rustoleum Milk Paint in the Eclipse color. I painted another one with Waverly Chalk Paint in the Moss color. The third one was already painted white and was kind of chippy so I left it that way. I distressed both the Moss green and the Eclipse black paint. I sealed both with a coat of Varathane Crystal Clear Polyurethane in the satin finish. Each of the seats received new foam and batting. I chose a floral fabric for the white stool. Always begin by stapling the center on each side and work your way out to the corners. Trim excess fabric and batting at the corners and staple those down as well. I used a canvas ticking fabric with sage green stripes for the stool with the green base. I also added a covered button in the center of this stool. I used a black and cream stripe canvas fabric for the black base. I had a large button so I used it for the black stool seat. Sewing stool with Rustoleum Milk Paint in the Eclipse color with black and cream striped canvas duck fabric. Sewing stool with Waverly Chalk Paint in the Moss color with sage green canvas ticking fabric. Sewing stool (already painted white) with floral canvas duck fabric. Thank you for reading my blog! If you would like to see more, follow me on Facebook, Instagram,and Pinterest! Just click on any of the social media links above! Thanks for following me on the junking adventures! Below are some links to products I used in this project. Disclaimer: Junk is My Life is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Below is an image to pin to Pinterest if you would like to save this idea!

This is the tale of a bookcase/shelving unit that wasn't supposed to be a project. It all began one weekend when I sold six pieces of furniture in two different locations from my antique booths. I have a lot of project pieces but not very many pieces that are "booth ready"—meaning they are in a condition that they could just go in my booth without any additional work being done to it. I was in desperate need of booth ready pieces. Fortunately, I was just getting ready to embark on the 127 Yard Sale, also know as the World's Longest Yard Sale. The 127 Yard Sale runs on highway 127 through six states (Michigan, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, Georgia and Alabama) for over 690 miles. It is always the first weekend in August. We usually go down to Alabama and start working our way north. We had just started our journey in Gadsden, Alabama when I spied this bookcase in a yard along the road. I had had a couple of bookcases like this in my booth before and they are handy for displaying items in a booth. The shelves are a good distance and the divided compartments make it easy to stage. The man running the yard sale told me he would make me a great deal on it (and it was the first day/first hour!)—clearly he wanted it gone. He named a good price but I was hesitating because we had literally just started out that morning and it was a big piece to put in the van. You have to wonder if there were better options out there! I mean it was the first mile of a 690 mile trip. And it was pretty dirty, but it did look like it would clean up easily. While I was mulling it over, I asked him about the price of this buttocks basket. He said he would toss it in for free if I took the shelf—and he said he would load the shelf into our van. SOLD. I mean, getting a basket for free that was well worth the price I paid for the shelf. Done and done. Buttocks baskets date back to the 19th century and early 20th century and were most commonly used to gather eggs because of its unique shaped bottom. It's called a buttocks basket because of the shape! I will do a post soon showing all my treasures from the trip. I usually do it daily from the road, but I just didn't do it this year. When we returned from the sale, I really wanted to get this bookshelf in my booth in Nappanee. I started to clean it with ZEP all purpose cleaner and then this happened.... The paint (two coats—a white and a cream/tan color) started peeling off like sheets of wallpaper. Arrrrggggghhhhhh! I so did not want this to become a project. So I thought, if it is coming off so easily, maybe I should just remove all the paint, sand it and re-stain it. All of this came off within 15 minutes so I thought the rest would be easily removable. Oh, the best laid plans.... So after a couple of days of peeling paint off of this, I was left with this. Some of the paint wouldn't come off and some of the wood had been damaged and had been repaired with wood filler, which is probably why the former owners had painted it. The back board is plywood and the area at the top of the photo was gouged out and the paint wouldn't easily come off. NOTE: The shelf is upside down in this photo so that area is actually at the bottom of the piece. I decided at this point just to sand it down and repaint it. I began painting the piece. I used Waverly Chalk Paint in the Moss color. I almost had the first coat on and then the skies opened up and let loose. I was painting outside so I hustled and got the piece back inside my workshop. The next day I came back to the workshop and this is what the paint looked like where the raindrops had hit it. I was just hoping that the second coat would cover it. Thankfully it did. I didn't want to have to sand down the paint to get rid of those spots. I finished the first coat and then added a second coat. I distressed the edges with with 60 grit sandpaper. I wanted to make it look like the paint had been there for a while. After the distressing, I wiped down the piece with a wet cloth to remove the dust. I sealed the entire piece with Varathane Crystal Clear polyurethane in a satin finish. I really like how the polyurethane coating enriches the color of the paint. This piece is going in my booth, but I wanted to stage it to show off the versatility of the piece. Fall decor and copper pieces look particularly good on this piece. The red books (a set of Louisa May Alcott books) really pop on the green as well. Thank you for reading my blog! If you would like to see more, follow me on Facebook, Instagram,and Pinterest! Just click on any of the social media links above! Thanks for following me on the junking adventures! Below are some links to products I used in this project. Disclaimer: Junk is My Life is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Below is an image to pin to Pinterest if you would like to save this idea!

Small tables are perfect for up-cycling projects. They come in all shapes and sizes, in every condition. They also can be found anywhere—garage sales, auctions, thrift stores, estate sales and even the side of the road. I found this one at an auction and was able to pick it up for a good price. Probably because the table was really wobbly and the top was not in great shape. It was damaged with years of use and water rings. This poor little table has had a hard life. There are water rings on the table top. I am a bit of the coaster police with the surfaces in my home (maybe a little more than a bit...). It's a little dinged up and the glue on the legs had long since given way. It was really wobbly. I probably could have completely torn off the legs if I put my elbow into it! It was a parlor table in desperate need of a upcycle makeover. I gathered my supplies of this project: • Electric sander • Sandpaper (various grits) • Waverly Chalk Paint (Cashew color) • Paint brushes • Rustoleum Matte Polyurethane • Sponge brushes • Wood glue • Wood clamps I changed my mind several times on what I was going to do with this table. I knew I would paint it but I changed my mind on the color multiple times. I also wondered if the table top could be salvaged. I decided to sand it to see what it would look like. To my surprise, the finish came right off and it looked great. I began with an 80 grit sandpaper and worked my way down to a 150 grit for a super smooth finish. There were still a few nicks in it here and there and some of the edges were nicked but overall I liked it and decided to leave the top as natural wood. I re-glued the legs and clamped them with wood clamps. There was also a crack in the "hem" of the underside of the top. I am not sure if that is the correct terminology for this portion, but it was the rim of wood directly under the top. I added glue to the crack and clamped that as well. I allowed it to dry for 24 hours. I painted the base with Waverly Chalk paint in the Cashew color. It had been a minute since I used this on a project. For a while there, I was using it on everything. Does anyone else have the issue of finding a color they love and then using it until even you are sick of it? It was nice to come back to this one and discover I still love it. I allowed the paint to dry for 24 hours. Then I used 100 grit sandpaper to lightly distress the piece. It had some nice detail which was highlighted by the distressing. I used a matte polyurethane to seal the painted portion as well as to bring out the beauty in the top of the table. It just gave it a really rich look. This table turned out really well. It is sturdy again and has a little life back in it. This would look great in a sunroom or a cozy reading nook! The perfect place to hold some fresh flowers, your book and your beverage (just use a coaster please!) Thank you for reading my blog! If you would like to see more, follow me on Facebook, Instagram,and Pinterest! Just click on any of the social media links above! Thanks for following me on the junking adventures! Below are some links to products I used in this project. Disclaimer: Junk is My Life is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Below is an image to pin to Pinterest if you would like to save this idea!

A few weeks ago, I was at an auction. They didn't have a lot that I wanted to purchase, but I did spy a couple of trunks. They were in pretty bad shape, the lids were not attached, they were kind of a mess. I was only going to purchase one that was in less worse shape than the other, but I ended up with both. This post is about how I upcycled one of the trunks. This is the first trunk. I don't know if you can tell, but part of the back of the trunk is not attached to the trunk. It was laying off to the side. I had to repair that for one of the projects. I thought about restoring the trunk, but hump-back trunks are difficult to sell so I decided to up-cycle the trunk into some wall decor. I have done that with some other trunks in the past. You can see those projects here and here, and I almost forgot about this one. On a side note, my brother restores trunks and he did a guest post about a trunk he restored to showcase his military service. You can find that here. For this project, you will need: • Ruler/Measuring Tape • Pencil • Circular Saw/Power Drill: I use the Black & Decker Matrix System • Assorted Wood Screws • Assortment of Sandpaper • Varathane Polyurethane: I use the satin finish. • Brushes to apply the polyurethane • Assortment of Coat Hooks: I purchased the ones used in this project at Hobby Lobby (make sure to catch the 50% off sales). • French Cleats: For hanging on the wall I wanted to cut down the base of the trunk to use the front and back for wall decor. The depth was about 3 inches. It varied on each side because I wanted to avoid metal straps and existing nails, etc. I used a circular saw to make the cuts. The photo above shows the front portion of the trunk after it has been cut down. I sanded the rough edges and any of the flat areas that were rough. I used the scrap from the bottom of the trunk to cut a piece to fill the gap (where the trunk was open for storage). This is not a critical step, you could leave it open, but I like to have a small shelf on the top end so you can add small pieces of decor. I also cut a piece (approx 4") for the back. This is where I will add a French cleat to hang on the wall. I did this with both the front and back portions of the trunk. I didn't have enough wood from the bottom of the trunk to do this so I used a piece of MDF. I used small nails to attach to the trunk. Finishing the Front of the Trunk There were some screws missing on the metal straps on the trunk. I secured them with wood screws. I use acrylic paint to make the screw blend with the old metal. I coated the entire piece (wood and metal) with Varathane Crystal Clear Polyurethane in the Satin finish. These hooks from Hobby Lobby matched the existing metal on the trunk pretty well. I decided to use three for the front of the trunk. I measured and marked the placement for each one and drilled the holes. I used a screw and a nut to bolt each one on the trunk. I like to use a screw with a bolt to secure the hook because I feel if you actually hand a coat on the hook, it would be less likely to pull the hook off if it bolted down rather than just screwed in with no bolt. Again, I used the acrylic paint (Folk Art Brush Metal in Brushed Black) to make the new screw match the color of the hook. It actually makes the screw blend right in. I added a French cleat (18 inch) to the back (and to the wall) to be able to hang this piece securely. Finishing the back section of the trunk I coated the entire piece (wood and metal) with Varathane Crystal Clear Polyurethane in the Satin finish. I chose these hooks from Hobby Lobby again, because they matched the existing metal on the trunk pretty well. I decided to use three for the front of the trunk. I measured and marked the placement for each one and drilled the holes. I used a screw and a nut to bolt each one on the trunk. I used the Folk Art Brushed Metal (Brushed Black) to paint the screws to match the metal hook. I added a French cleat (18 inch) to the back (and to the wall) to be able to hang this piece securely. Finishing the Top of the Trunk The top of the trunk is the third piece of the puzzle here. It needed a little less construction. I used a scrap piece of wood to add a back to the top of the trunk. I don't have step by step photos for this one. I coated the entire piece (wood and metal) with Varathane Crystal Clear Polyurethane in the Satin finish. I chose hooks that look like silverware for this piece. I added a French cleat (18 inch) to the back (and to the wall) to be able to hang this piece securely. The Finished Pieces This is the front portion of the trunk. The wood I added at the top makes a nice shelf for small knick-knacks. The hooks look like they have always been there. This is the back portion of the trunk. Again, the wood added to the top lends itself to accommodating additional decor. This is the top of the trunk. Since this was a hump-back trunk, it curves outward a bit. So go ahead, pick up that trunk that is falling apart. It can have a new life again—in this case, three new lives! Thank you for reading my blog! If you would like to see more, follow me on Facebook, Instagram,and Pinterest! Just click on any of the social media links above! Thanks for following me on the junking adventures! Below are some links to products I used in this project. Disclaimer: Junk is My Life is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Below is an image to pin to Pinterest if you would like to save this idea!